inspiring person of the week.

Greg Long is a big wave surfer and human role model. Not only is he very easy on the eyes Laugh, but his energy, heart, genuineness, and perspective are so appealing. So incredibly wise for 30 years old! I've been a fan of him since I started following surfing, and I love what he had to say in the August 2013 issue of Surfer magazine, when he shared in the aftermath of a three wave hold down ordeal that nearly killed him:

"My goal in life is to constantly keep improving in every aspect and facet, not just surfing. The amazing thing about this life is that there's an infinite number of possibilities that could direct you into a whole different place than you'd ever thought you would be. I never took for granted the amount of amazing people and experiences and opportunities that I had from surfing. But, what really matters is my family, my friends, and my health and well-being, as well as all of theirs. The ultimate goal is just to be happy and content. So if it carries forward in surfing, that's beautiful. If it happens in some other avenue in life for me, then I'm still gong to be happy and content."


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